If it ain't broke...

...it probably was at one point and was then repaired incorrectly.

After giving just one half of the motor the once over I've come to determine that torque specs meant absolutely nothing to the previous owner of the '76 GL1000.

I've already found that there is a crack or hole in the head where one of the exhaust studs screws in. Also the threads of the stud which holds on the mechanical fuel pump are completely stripped, YAY!

Oil drips from an exhaust stud
 I suspect it was screwed in too tight and cracked the head.

The threads have been stripped out of the head by the fuel pump stud.

Stud hole [top left] stripped of it's threads.

I'm in a real pinch right now. I had planned on taking the Goldwing to Charlottesville this weekend, but unless I can pull out some quick miracle fixes that isn't going to happen.

I'm not looking forward to undoing all the work I just put into her. Although it is necessary in order to pull the head so I can have the exhaust hole welded and fuel pump hole heli-coiled and tapped back out to 6mm 1.0 pitch.

It is all in the timing.

Just passed the MSF course this past weekend with a perfect score. *pats self on back*
In celebration of my soon-to-be-lowered insurance rate, I plan on doing some serious cruising on the Goldwing. But not before making sure she is hot to trot. This means a check-up from the proverbial neck up: brake systems are alright, front forks are good, a new battery is on the way, a new rear tire is on the rim and ready to be installed, drive gear oil is refreshed, and coolant flushed. The next thing on the agenda is timing belts. The previous owner did a lot of maintenance to the GL but couldn't give me an exact mileage or date when the timing belts were changed, so off they come.
Unfortunately I didn't consider that in order to check the timing belts, I had to remove the radiator and therefore drain all the coolant. Oh well, looks like I'll be running water and Water Wetter until the next paycheck.

Anywho, back to the task at hand:

1) Remove the radiator, attached fan, hoses, etc... followed by the cam gear cover.

The radiator and timing and cam gear cover have been removed.

The belts look great but I already spent money on replacements, 
so on they go.

2) Turn the motor until the T1 mark is visible through the timing window.

(The number 1 is below the F mark)

3) Make sure the "UP" on the cam gear faces is at the top and the timing marks on the gear edges are lined up with the timing marks on the cam gear housing for both gears. If one mark on the cam gear lines up with the corresponding mark on the casing, then your timing is fucked and your pistons have probably already become closely acquainted with the valves.

"UP" is at top and legible.
Timing mark on right cam gear lines up with housing mark at 90º
(3 o'clock facing motor front).

"UP" is at top and legible.
Timing mark on left cam gear lines up with housing mark at 270º
(9 o'clock facing motor front).

4) Loosen bolts on the two belt tensioners. Yes, all 4 of them. Yes, they're impossible to get off. No, there is no good way to do this except the way that doesn't break them. No, I can't help you if you have broken them.
That being said I used vice grips, a ball-peen hammer and a t-handle socket driver. God-speed.

5) Slide belt off left cam gear being careful not to let gear fling back 1/8 turn making a heart-stopping *CLANK* when it does (ask me how I know this). Then slide the belt off the right cam gear and go grab yourself a beer. The hard part is over. While you're grabbing that beer you might want to make it two. That way you'll have something to bribe the friend that you're going to need to help you with this next part.

Timing belts removed.

6) Installing the belts is the reverse of removal, sort of. Make sure all the timing marks are lined up as described in the second and third steps. Slide the belts on making sure  they are taught across the top, then slide them over the tensioners and tighten the tensioner mount bolts.
For that left cam gear you may need to put a wrench over the camshaft mount bolt and turn it to line up the timing marks correctly. Then hold it there while you install the belt making sure it is taught across the top.

This is of course difficult to do alone unless you happen to have 3 hands or a beautiful girlfriend to help you. Thanks Rachel, you're the best!

Timing belts successfully installed.

Nowhere to go but up.

I just finished refreshing the bottom end of the K7 motor.
Everything was removed; transmission, bearings, crank, etc... Then I hit both case halves with a liberal application of Simple Green and a toothbrush. Everything is now clean and shiny.

Following this I checked and replaced everything that needed it. A new primary chain and tensioner were required, the crank and case bearings were still in wonderful shape, and the gears and shift forks were flawless. The only real problem I encountered was that the thin disc on the end of the shift drum was bent. Well, that and trying to get the shift linkage all put back correctly.

Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the disassembly or cleaning process. That ordeal was a bit too dirty for me to do and operate a camera simultaneously. But here are some pictures of the finished product. New primary chains and tensioner installed, cases clean, and everything reassembled using 90w gear oil.

Next step is to soda blast the upper case, cylinder bores, and head. Once clean I'll assemble everything and paint the motor all together with the old hardware on there. That way I don't have to worry about masking any areas off. Then replace all the hardware with stainless steel hex head sockets and the motor will be good to go!

Cleaning BS-34 Carbs From the '81 XS650

Alright kiddies listen up. This is why you don't leave gas sitting in your carbs for years.

Fortunately there is a solution to remedy the error of your ways; the ultrasonic cleaner!

Fresh Rubber

Just removed the rear from both Gl1000's. Despite the gouge in the '76 wheel I think I'm going to have my new Dunlop 404 mounted on that one. The other wheel is just a bit too dirty, rusty, and has been sitting for far longer, so there are more unknowns as to its integrity.

Update: May 6th. The integrity of the wheel and it's tire is just fine. I went for a spin on it and managed to get a speeding ticket; 69 in a 45. Whoops. New tire is on but the bike will be sitting for a while as some more maintenance needs to be performed. Next thing on the agenda for the GL is the timing belts and valve lash.